The train to Kandy
Deciding that the best way to reach Kandy in the mountains was by taking a scenic train I arrived early into the station expecting it to be late as is the norm in India. So when the train pulled in twenty minutes early I did not quite know what to do with myself! Questions of whether this was my train let alone where I was meant to sit raced through my head. My ticket which strangely resembled an old classic cinema coupon ticket gave me no clue either as it was written in Singalese, although I suspected I was in 2nd class. So I opted for the first carriage nearest to me. As I settled in a tall oldish man with big round glasses jumped into the train and grabbing my hand repeatedly said in rough English '2nd class this way' pointing further up the train. Taking me off the train he walked me to the 2nd class and found me a sit, without asking for anything. With my albeit limited Singalese I thanked him as these seats had cusions!
The train whilst old and regid retains an air and certain sense of grace. As the train weaves its way through some spectacular countryside the packed carriages bustle with life. Sitting in front of me I found a gorgeous little girl, maybe 3, sitting on her fathers lap. The entire journey they played with each other in what was really a rather sweet.
Elsewhere on the train people sit, chat and read newspapers whilst others, like the man who sat next to me, had this amazing ability of being able to fall asleep almost instantly even though the train rocks and rolls as it moves over the mountains!
The speed of the train is what surprised me the most. Unlike in India the trains in Sri Lanka, or at least the ones I have been on, move surprisingly fast. Admitedly not like the Intercity in the UK or TGV in France but nevertheless fast enough to make you feel like you are at least making progress in the right direction
The train at first crosses plains and gradually creeps and climbs into the mountains which rise in the centre of the country. The scenary over the two hour climb is simply breathtaking as the train moves through the mountains passing through hand made tunnels cut into the rocks or clings to the side of the mountains with sheer drops to the side of what seems like thousands of feet. As the train rises you can see the valleys against the backdrop of the hills and mountains in the distance.
As the train moves onwards sellers move up and down the train selling all manner of things from games to strange sorts of food which have strong aroma's. Some carry their products on their shoulders whilst other more adventurous salesman somehow manage to balance their baskets on their heads often whilst walking in the opposite direction to which the train is moving!
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